I’ve always been curious about those fondue chains. Gimmicky, perhaps, but appealing nonetheless. Who can say no to a big pot of bubbling cheese, bread and veggies to dip in it, and a decent wine list? My first foray into this genre was a trip to Simply Fondue in Sundance Square last weekend (there are also locations in Arlington and Dallas). It’s situated in the basement of an office building, which is a little odd, but once you get down there, it’s an appealing restaurant, if a little unevenly lit. We changed tables to get away from a harsh spotlight-like ceiling lamp and a chilly vent, but once reseated, found it very cozy. It was a special occasion, and instead of risking feeling cheap, we ordered the four-course meal, which was definitely a mistake. It’s expensive, it’s too much food, and it’s really too rich. But I’d go back, and order with a little more restraint: The spinach and strawberry salad, a shared pot of Swiss cheese fondue (considered an appetizer), and a glass of wine would make a decadent and satisfying meal on its own. The meatless entrée is an assortment of vegetables such as squash, mushrooms, broccoli, potatoes, and eggplant, along with cheese ravioli, which can be cooked at the table in canola oil (there’s a batter to dip it in first) or vegetable broth. Having reached our chocolate course totally stuffed, we opted to take dessert to-go and enjoyed it the next evening at home. Apparently this has happened before—the waiter was quick to offer a chocolate voucher for our next visit as another option. While smaller portions and more dark chocolate fondue options would make the menu more sophisticated, it’s worth a visit, provided you can order with restraint.