A bottle of Veuve Clicquot and some ridiculously rich pasta dishes at Nonna Tata: Yup, someone got tenure. In light of recent developments, I’m viewing Cowtown through new eyes, those of a permanent resident, or whatever that means to someone who’s never lived in the same dwelling for more than five years running. (It’s probably due to growing up in a military family, but living in the same house for years on end makes me itchy. Rearranging the furniture sometimes helps…) If you find yourself wanting to take a special bottle somewhere, remember that Nonna Tata (1400 West Magnolia Ave., Fort Worth, 817-332-0250) doesn’t charge a corkage fee, but you do need to bring your own wineglasses (and cash or check). Every pasta dish comes with a small salad to start (I like the house raspberry chipotle dressing, a nice mix of sweet and smoky), and a delicious square of focaccia; there are plenty of meatless choices. We got a mushroom and mascarpone tagliatelle, and my old standby, pasta with lemon and spinach (and cream, naturally). The veggie lasagna special looked very good, too.