Whole-wheat tortillas can sound like a little bit of a downer: Why ruin great Mexican food with something so self-consciously healthful? And the ones you’ll find at most supermarkets are so dry and inflexible that they have a tendency to crack when you roll them around a filling. When a tortilla can’t wrap around its filling successfully, most of us have very little use for it. All those reasons add up to why I was so surprised to find that I adore the whole-wheat tortillas at Central Market. They’re soft-taco size, pliable, moist, soft, and, inexplicably, still warm no matter what time of day I drop by the market. They’re so delicious, in fact, that I’ve been able to use them as sit-still-in-the-cart-so-I-can-shop bribes for our kids—every bit as effectively as Goldfish crackers. We like to fill them with brown rice, black beans, shredded lettuce, grated Jack cheese, chopped fresh tomatoes and avocadoes, and, if we’re really doing it up right, some garlicky 4th Anniversary Salsa, also from Central Market (look in the prepared foods bar).